The Fuction of Kelingkan in Malay Society

Abstract

Kelingkan, an old Malay needlework art form is an artistic legacy created and utilised by olden Malay society. It is an intricate embroidery technique used to embellish textiles which was pioneered by Malay women. The intricacy of such embroidery art demands high precision and the unique expertise of embroiderers, who utilise gold or silver coated metal tape threads sewn on the surface of soft fabric. The beauty of the structure and variety of ornaments are accentuated in the case of kelingkan for ladies' head covering, which consists of the scarf and shawl, in the shape of a square and rectangular. The question is, how is the kelingkan design created? What is its design purpose? As a result, the author conducts qualitative descriptive research through fieldwork, including observation, interviews with embroiderers, and collection analysis. According to the study's findings, kelingkan embroidery activities in Malaysia have increased since the establishment of Malaya's trading system. There are still active embroiderers in only three states: Sarawak, Selangor, and Kelantan with the square and rectangular designs on the shawl and scarf used as headgear, clothing, rehal lining, bedsheets, takbir decorations, souvenirs, dowry mats, events, wedding ceremonies, a groom's cab and “nasi temuan” ceremony. Cultural functions, aesthetic functions, religious functions, social functions, and symbolic functions are just a few of the identified functions. Through this study, it is also possible to draw the conclusion that the utilitarian component can highlight the distinctiveness and clarify the significance of this needlework art. Implications: The study's findings can be used as a source of information to ensure that this form of art is kept alive in the Malay community.